More Than Pumas

Torres del Paine, Patagonia

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We went to Torres del Paine to photograph pumas in winter, but as always seems to happen when I step outside of my comfort zone, I discovered so much more.

The pumas live wild and free within the protection of the park, and many have become habituated to people. It is extraordinary to watch Dania walk quietly past us, surprisingly close, seemingly unaware that we are there.

There is a special camaraderie among photographers. We sit for hours, watching and waiting. Then a scratch, a lick, a turn of the head or a stretch suddenly brings us all to our cameras, quietly sharing the excitement. Maybe she will position herself against the iconic landscape or glance our way. Through a long lens, each of us thinks - and Monica says - “She is looking right at ME.”

Even Michelle and Jeff, who have been here before, approach each day with the enthusiasm of a new adventure. Their excitement when the trackers spotted Petaca, the undisputed queen of Patagonia, was contagious.

We also learn from the trackers—how they read the landscape, find the pumas, and recognize each individual by name. Hearing their stories and learning the personalities and histories of the pumas makes each encounter feel more personal. I have enormous respect for their knowledge and the care they take to position us without disturbing the animals.

And there is so much more to photograph: an old pier in Puerto Natales, guanacos under a bright sky, gray foxes, caracaras, a handsome gaucho named Diego, and the spectacular landscape of Torres del Paine.

At the end of each day, we gather around the dinner table, sharing stories and laughs. Those evenings are part of what makes the trip so much fun.

These photographs are a reflection of that experience—the pumas, the landscape, the people, and the simple joy of witnessing something wild and beautiful with new friends.